I can’t say that Icklingham is somewhere we’ve ever considered visiting before. This small West Suffolk village is home to just over 400 people and architecturally it’s a real mix. Alongside the more modern properties, there are plenty of flint cottages and thatched buildings, some dating back to the 16th century.
One of the most prominent thatched buildings in Icklingham is The Guinness Arms. Formerly the Red Lion, its name changed in 2019 when it was taken on by the Guinness family, owners of the Elveden Estate.
Originally a 16th-century coaching inn, The Guinness Arms has remained true to its roots by offering eight guest rooms in the barns adjacent to the main pub building. We knew absolutely nothing about the place before we drove there (we were recommended by the team at the Elveden Inn when we turned up there and they had no tables), so the place was a pleasant surprise.
Our son was happy to see a large expanse of grass beyond the terraced outdoor dining area – complete with play equipment to keep him entertained while he waited for his food.
The interior is absolutely stunning. The small seating/waiting area you arrive in when you first walk in is quirkily decorated, with mismatched furniture and a warm, cosy vibe. The main dining room is a feast for the eyes, too: a conservatory-style room with a relaxed, casual feel, as well as a smaller, cosier dining area behind.
The menu makes as much use as possible of produce from the Elveden Estate and local countryside, as well as supporting other East Anglian food and drink producers. It’s not just your traditional pub grub, either: as well as the British classics, you’ll find dishes like duck bao buns, Elveden onion bhajis and Moroccan-spiced cauliflower that take inspiration from a variety of cultures.
There is a dedicated kids’ menu, which is pretty similar to what you’ll find in most other places. For between £7 and £8, younger diners can choose a burger and chips, fish and chips, ham, egg and chips, sausages and mash or tomato pasta.
Our son chose the salt & vinegar whitebait with tartare sauce (£7) from the adults’ starter menu instead. Apart from the pip-laden wedge of lemon that had seen better days, the presentation was impressive. It was a generous portion for £7, and the fish were lovely and crisp: they were clearly delicious, as he polished off the lot.
Three out of four of the adults in our party chose the fish and chips (£18). Enveloped in a light yet flavourful batter, the tender haddock came with tartare sauce and a delicious pea puree, as well as some of the thickest hand-cut chips I’ve seen on a menu. It was an impressive portion for the money, and all three left feeling satisfied.
Instead of a main course, I chose a starter and a side. The salt and pepper squid with chilli sauce (£8) was beautiful. The squid itself was deliciously tender, crisp on the outside and beautifully seasoned, the spring onions on top adding a touch of freshness.
The smell of the cheesy truffle chips (£5) when they arrived at the table was incredible – the combined aroma of melting cheese and earthy truffle oil definitely whetted my appetite! Again, these were enormous, skin-on, hand-cut chips, and the flavour lived up to the smell. In all honesty, they could have done with a little longer in the fryer to make them perfect, though.
While this meal out wasn’t at the venue we’d originally planned, we’re so pleased that it gave us the chance to try somewhere new. If you’re ever in the Icklingham area, we’d certainly recommend a visit to The Guinness Arms.