by Louis Hessey-Antell. Find Louis on Instagram here.
On entering the wonderful, charming, soon to be graced with a coveted Michelin star if I have anything to do with it, Elderflower Restaurant in Lymington, we were greeted by Star Light (no joke; that’s her name). As professional as the day is long, we were swiftly served with freshly baked half-and-half sourdough, home-made and newly whipped herby butter, and a relatively affordable drinks menu. My Madri was what it was; Madridian, and apt for the beginning of a long luncheon. Provence was the well from where Helen’s rosé once sprang, and the only words we had for this particular tipple were ‘cold, crisp, and dry’ (this is not a reference to the cheap oil used in late-night kebab houses of a Saturday night, I assure you).
Before we arrived, Helen (or maybe Nostradamus) knew I would be eating the ‘Mackerel Tartare’ at some point soon, but the wild card was the ‘Rosemary & Parmesan Gnocchi’. These decisions were not going to take long. As soon as we heard the couple in charge of The Elderflower were an esoteric blend of French and South African and had already garnered three AA Rosettes, any fears a diner might have were non-existent. I adore places like this.
Our appetisers were presented as if we were future judges on The Great British Menu. No mouthful went uneaten, every edible flower was there for a reason, none of the seasoning was off base (unless more sensitive palettes would find the gnocchi a little too salty), dressed with differently prepared mushrooms that brought the sea and the earth together.
The crisp mouli garnish on my mackerel tartare was somewhat of a revelation to me; maybe I don’t eat in enough fine dining restaurants to know any better! Shallots, entangled among finely chopped raw mackerel, with a bounty of herbs, bound with a creamy mayonnaise concoction (I guess), I couldn’t have wished for a fresher start. I won’t go on too long, or this review might last forever. You have been warned.
The saucier at The Elderflower was a strapping young lad named Callum, and the kitchen is ruled by a master going by the name of Andrew Du Bourg. His loving wife Marjolaine (apologies for the spelling if I got that wrong) is the co-proprietor, wine-orderer, better half, etc. My, what a grand job they are doing. I re-direct you here to the cosmic gift for any reviewer: our server. I reiterate, her name was Star Light. You can’t make these things up! Lymington is the place to be if you’re near the South Eastern Riviera or the New Forest.
I’m a predictable fellow. The lobster was always going to end up in front of me, one way or another. Helen’s choice was the ‘Catch of the Day Mixed Grill’. To quote the great Simon Hopkinson, “Lobster Thermidor is a disgusting dish”; maybe not in this case, but sometimes I have to cede to superior knowledge now and again: Harissa butter it was. The catch of the day was, truth be told, the lottery yesterday. I was guessing away. Cod cheeks or monkfish? Nope! Skate wing! There were also squid slices, plump mussels, and one king-prawn. A king prawn not cooked in its shell is a monarch without a crown. Bravo. These all sat atop a slightly spicy tomato risotto. She was chomping away until no grain of rice was left unturned.
My main was simplicity itself. Half a pretty large lobster, the meat removed and placed back inside (God bless the person who remembered to put the claw inside the head), with a ‘Sexy Salad’ and ‘Fries’. The salad itself wasn’t ultra-special; Avocado, spinach, herbs, etc., with a honey and lemon dressing. However, if, to quote The Simpsons, “You don’t make friends with salad”, I certainly fell in love with this one. The fries were superior; I guessed Koffman’s, but…you can’t be right every time. Just the ticket for a hungry gourmand before cocktail hour kicks in. Drizzling the melted, lobster-infused, pokey butter over the remaining frites was a particularly welcome treat, acting as the coda to this semi-unexpected discovery.
In short, The Elderflower is a gem. It is awaiting a Michelin Star. The team are incredible. Every ingredient is sourced locally unless it is advantageous to do otherwise. If I were in charge of the place, I would preserve this team in formaldehyde and have them stuffed when the mission is over. A world cruise is in order for such brigades; both front and back of house. We didn’t take advantage of all the spoils on offer, because we were after a semi-light lunch. Others who can afford it, please, go ape. You won’t regret it.
10/10
The bread and butter were also complimentary. Would highly recommend.
(This menu is currently priced at 2 courses for £35 or 3 for £45, with a supplement for the lobster)