Lark in Bury St Edmunds is the sort of place that’s easy to miss when you walk past. Slightly off the main stretch of restaurants, it’s a tiny place – but one that’s (rightfully) been well-lauded by some of the country’s top food critics.
On our first visit to Lark, we arrived for a midweek lunch to find ourselves the only diners in the room (well, it was just before pay day) – surprising, but it made the whole experience feel even more intimate. It was almost like private dining in someone’s living room, with the stacks of cookbooks on the windowsills and the beautiful artwork on the walls. Equally, though, I can easily imagine the place buzzing with energy when every seat is filled.
From the moment we sat down, the service was exceptional. The gentleman looking after us was not only genuinely friendly and welcoming, but incredibly knowledgeable, too, talking us through each dish with real confidence. Fine dining this place may be, but certainly not pretentious.
We chose to order Lark’s Kitchen Selection menu, available at £65 per head midweek lunchtimes and designed to be enjoyed by the whole table. It’s a great way to experience a broad snapshot of chef-owner James Carn’s style: seasonal, local ingredients in small plates designed for sharing.
Things kicked off with a rich, creamy cod’s roe dip that carried just enough tang to cut through its indulgence. Served with crisps that had a seriously satisfying crunch, it was a moreish introduction to our meal. Alongside this, a deliciously chewy fougasse, topped with an incredible quantity of shaved, salty Parmesan.
This was accompanied by thin slivers of Arturo Sanchez Coppa: beautifully marbled and deliciously unctuous around the edges, the fat melting beautifully on the tongue.
The mushroom arancini were a standout for us. Here, the mushroom flavour ran right through the rice, while a generous chunk hidden in the centre added texture. Finished with lavish shavings of Perigord truffle, this dish felt rustic yet luxurious.
Two contrasting sea bass dishes followed. The Suffolk sea bass tempura arrived looking almost like a UFO of crisp batter, surrounding firm, meaty fish. The accompanying curry sauce was rich, silky and zesty, while a dill-spiked raita added a cooling freshness alongside. The batter was perhaps slightly oversalted for my personal taste, but not enough to distract from an otherwise excellent dish.
The cured sea bass offered a more delicate take on the fish. Paired with a blood orange and ginger dressing, it balanced citrus brightness with a little restraint, allowing the flavour of the fish to shine through. The ginger was subtle rather than fiery, and the bursts of blood orange added sweetness and acidity in equal measure.
Then came the El Capricho ox pie, a dish that looked just as indulgent as it tasted. The pastry crust was beautifully golden, dense and slightly chewy, giving way to incredibly tender meat beneath. A bone running from top to bottom revealed rich marrow inside, while the whole thing sat in a sea of vivid parsley sauce. Topped with a raw onion and herb salad that brought freshness and bite, we loved this theatrical take on a British classic.
A clever beef fillet tartare hash brown followed. The hash brown itself was deeply savoury, crisp on the outside and fluffy within, though again, a little too salty for my taste. Topped with tender beef tartare with a vinegary chilli kick and balanced by bitter leaves, it was bold, punchy and definitely satisfying.
Lark’s high standards continued through to the desserts, with the canelé delivering a beautifully caramelised crust and an almost custardy centre. We finished with the white chocolate and passion fruit trifle: zingy passion fruit jelly cut through smooth cream and sweet white chocolate, while toasted hazelnuts and shards of blond chocolate added crunch and richness.
With its thoughtful cooking, genuinely warm hospitality and intimate setting, our first experience of Lark was certainly a memorable one. While it felt very much like a private dining experience, we’re looking forward to heading back during a busier service to experience the restaurant’s true vibe next time.